Paris

City Statistics

Location: Ile-de-France region, France.
Country dialing code: 33.
Population: 2,144,700 (city); 11,500,000 (metropolitan area) (2005).
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 4°C (39°F).
Average July temp: 19.5°C (67°F).
Annual rainfall: 642mm (25 inches).

Paris: Overview

Arc de Triomphe

The city center is actually surprisingly compact and the Métro system makes getting around fairly easy. A good way for first time arrivals to get an idea of how Paris fits together is to take a cruise on the River Seine or ascend the Eiffel Tower and take in a sweeping view of the city. With so much to see, time management is crucial and many people choose to concentrate on one or two of the arrondissements (districts).

The nostalgic should wander around the mansions of the Marais district, past the Musée Carnavalet, 23 rue de Sévigné, 3rd; Hôtel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4th, and Place des Vosges, home to the Maison de Victor Hugo.

Those interested in modern art and design should opt for the Centre Georges Pompidou, place Beaubourg, 4th; Jean Nouvel’s Institut du Monde Arabe, 1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, 5th; or the Grande Arche de la Défense with its high-speed glass lift offering a spectacular view of Paris.

The Grande Arche, which lies along the same geographical axis as Napoleon’s Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées, was built a century and a half later. This incongruity (the modern city juxtaposed with the old) is all part of the charm of Paris.

Paris overflows with museums, ranging from the vast collections of the Louvre to the small and quirky - such as the Musée des Arts Forains, 53 avenue des-Terroires-de-France, 12th, a shrine to fairground art, with something for everyone scattered through the metropolitan area. The Musée du Quai Branly,37 quai Branly, 7th, one of the newer museums, opened to much fanfare in 2006.

Repeat visitors to Paris usually end up uncovering something new, such as the rejuvenated Bercy district to the east with its green spaces, popular bars and development buzz or Belleville, with its grungy cosmopolitanism and ethnic restaurants.

Another popular attraction is Paris Plage in summer when the city’s inhabitants relax by the Seine amidst a world of sand and deckchairs.

Tourist Information

Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau
25 rue des Pyramides
Tel: 0892 683 000.
Website: http://www.paris-touristoffice.com/
Opening hours: (Jun-Oct) daily 0900-1900; (Nov-May) Mon-Sat 1100-1900, Sun 1000-1900.

Further tourist offices are located at the Gare de Lyon, 20 boulevard Diderot, 12th (open Mon to Sat 0800-1800), Gare du Nord, 18 rue de Dunkerque, 10th (open 0800-1800), Opera, 11 rue Scribe, 9th (open 0900-1830), Eiffel Tower(open daily 1100-1840 May to Sep).

Passes

The Museum Pass (website: http://www.museums-of-paris.com/) allows free unlimited access to more than 70 museums and monuments in the Paris region, including the Arc de Triomphe, Musée National du Louvre, Musée d’Orsay and Musée Rodin. The two-, four- or six-day pass is for sale from tourist offices, participating museums and monuments, the main métro stations and FNAC stores. It allows visitors to bypass queues but does not provide free admission to special or temporary exhibitions.

Paris: Tourist Information

Euro Star (High Speed Trains)

Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Garden)
This garden, part formal, part jardin à l’anglaise, was created for Marie de Médicis (Henri IV’s widow), along with the Palais du Luxembourg, which now houses the French Senate. It is a favored spot for a Sunday stroll, game of tennis, chess or boules, or a pony ride.  
Boulevard St-Michel, rue de Médicis, rue Guynemer, rue d’Assas, rue Auguste-Comte or rue de Vaugirard, 6th
Tel: (01) 4234 2362.
Opening hours: Daily 0715-2130 (Apr-Sep); daily 0800-dusk (Oct-Mar).
Free admission.

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
This appealing park spreads over 23 hectares (57 acres) between Gare du Nord and Belleville. It was originally commissioned by Napoleon III and mixes grandeur with wildlife. Its walkways are alive with the likes of wagtails, gulls, geese and swans. In the lake pike, tench and roach abound. The park is perfect for escaping the city for a while, strolling around its lofty inclines or even popping on some in-line skates and heading around the skate trail.

Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk.
Free admission.

La Grande Mosquée de Paris (Paris Grand Mosque)
Built between 1922 and 1926, close to the Jardin des Plantes, this Hispano-Moorish mosque caters for France’s Muslim community. There is free access and guided tours to the sunken garden and patios. The prayer room, however, remains closed to the non-Muslim public. There is also an authentic hammam (Turkish bath) with masseurs at hand, as well as a wonderful mosaic courtyard complete with fig trees and a fountain - the perfect setting for enjoying a sweet mint tea served in tiny gilded glasses with some honeyed baklava. In the adjoining restaurant, couscous and other Arabic dishes are served.

1 place du Puits-de-l’Ermite (access via 39 rue Géoffroy-St-Hillaire), 5th
Tel: (01) 4535 9733.
Website: http://www.mosquee-de-paris.org/
Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Thurs and Sat 1000-2100, Fri 1400-2100 (women); Tues 1400-2100, Sun 1000-2100 (men); tours Sat-Thurs 0900-1200 and 1400-1800 (winter), Sat-Thurs 0900-1200 and 1400-2200 (summer); closed Muslim holidays.
Admission charge; free to tearoom.

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (Architecture and Heritage Museum)
This museum, which spans from the 11th century through to the future, is devoted to France’s architectural heritage. Twice a year architects are invited to transform part of the museum space into a world of their own creation.

Palais de Chaillot, 1 place du Trocadéro, 16th
Tel: (01) 5851 5200
Website: http://www.citechaillot.fr/
Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Fri 1200-2000; Sat, Sun 1100-1900; Thurs 1200-2200; Tues closed.
Admission charge.

Paris: Sightseeing

The Effeil Tower

The city centre is actually surprisingly compact and the Métro system makes getting around fairly easy. A good way for first time arrivals to get an idea of how Paris fits together is to take a cruise on the River Seine or ascend the Eiffel Tower and take in a sweeping view of the city. With so much to see, time management is crucial and many people choose to concentrate on one or two of the arrondissements (districts).

The nostalgic should wander around the mansions of the Marais district, past the Musée Carnavalet, 23 rue de Sévigné, 3rd; Hôtel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4th, and Place des Vosges, home to the Maison de Victor Hugo.

Those interested in modern art and design should opt for the Centre Georges Pompidou, place Beaubourg, 4th; Jean Nouvel’s Institut du Monde Arabe, 1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, 5th; or the Grande Arche de la Défense with its high-speed glass lift offering a spectacular view of Paris.

The Grande Arche, which lies along the same geographical axis as Napoleon’s Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées, was built a century and a half later. This incongruity (the modern city juxtaposed with the old) is all part of the charm of Paris.

Paris overflows with museums, ranging from the vast collections of the Louvre to the small and quirky - such as the Musée des Arts Forains, 53 avenue des-Terroires-de-France, 12th, a shrine to fairground art, with something for everyone scattered through the metropolitan area. The Musée du Quai Branly,37 quai Branly, 7th, is Paris’s newest museum, opened to much fanfare in 2006.

Repeat visitors to Paris usually end up uncovering something new, such as the rejuvenated Bercydistrict to the east with its green spaces, popular bars and development buzz or Belleville, with its grungy cosmopolitanism and ethnic restaurants.

Another popular attraction is Paris Plage in summer when the car takes a back seat and the city’s citizens relax by the Seine amidst a world of sand and deckchairs.

Tourist Information

Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau
25 rue des Pyramides
Tel: 0892 683 000.
Website: http://www.paris-touristoffice.com/
Opening hours: (Jun-Oct) daily 0900-1900; (Nov-May) Mon-Sat 1100-1900, Sun 1000-1900.

Further tourist offices are located at the Gare de Lyon, 20 boulevard Diderot, 12th (open Mon to Sat 0800-1800), Gare du Nord, 18 rue de Dunkerque, 10th (open 0800-1800), Opera, 11 rue Scribe, 9th (open 0900-1830), Eiffel Tower(open daily 1100-1840 May to Sep).

Passes

The Museum Pass (website: http://www.museums-of-paris.com/) allows free unlimited access to more than 70 museums and monuments in the Paris region, including the Arc de Triomphe, Musée National du Louvre, Musée d’Orsay and Musée Rodin. The two-, four- or six-day pass is for sale from tourist offices, participating museums and monuments, the main métro stations and FNAC stores. It allows visitors to bypass queues but does not provide free admission to special or temporary exhibitions.

Paris: Culture

Museum In Paris

French Dancers Performing Live

Parisians are almost as passionate about their culture as they are about their restaurants. The French government takes art and culture very seriously, pumping money into the arts, supporting French cinema against Hollywood imports, and embarking on extravagant grands travaux (large projects), such as the new Bibliothèque Nationale de France, quai François-Mauriac (tel: (01) 5379 5959; website: http://www.bnf.fr/). The Opéra Bastille (see Music below) opened in 1989, on the bicentennial of Bastille Day, although the merit of its architecture and the quality of its productions have since been questioned.

Major venues, in addition to those detailed below, include the Palais des Congrès, 2 place de la Porte-Maillot, 17th (tel: (01) 4068 0005; website: http://www.palaisdescongres-paris.com/), for opera, ballet and pop-star performances, and the enormous Palais des Sports, Porte de Versailles, 15th (tel: (01) 4828 4010; website: http://www.palaisdessports.com/).

Tickets for concerts of all kinds can be purchased at FNAC Forum des Halles, 1 rue Pierre Lescot, 1st (tel: (01) 4041 4000; website: http://www.fnac.com/), or FNAC Musique, 2 rue Charenton, 12th (tel: (01) 4342 0404). There is also the Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli, 1st (tel: (01) 4316 4747 or 7272 1700; website: http://www.carrouseldulouvre.fr/), located directly beneath the Louvre, or Virgin Megastore, 52 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th (tel: (01) 4953 5000; website: http://www.virginmega.fr/). However long the queue, ticket touts at the Opéra and concert venues are to be avoided due to high prices and the prevalence of worthless fake tickets.

Listings are to be found in Pariscope (website: http://www.pariscope.com/) and L’Officiel des Spectacles. Classical concerts are listed in the monthly Le Monde de la Musique.

Music: The Paris Opéra (tel: 0892 899 090; website: http://www.opera-de-paris.fr/) performs ballet and opera at the Opéra Garnier, place de l’Opéra, 9th, and Opéra Bastille, place de la Bastille, 12th. Large opera productions are also performed at the Châtelet Théâtre Musical de Paris, 1 place du Châtelet, 1st (tel: (01) 4028 2840; website: http://www.chatelet-theatre.com/). The varied programme at the Cité de la Musique, at La Villette (website: http://www.cite-musique.fr/), is strongest in contemporary music and home to the internationally renowned Ensemble Intercontemporain (website: http://www.ensembleinter.com/). It also features ancient music, jazz, chansons and world music. The Citéhas two important venues - the Conservatoire National de Musique, 209 avenue Jean Jaurès, 19th (tel: (01) 4040 4545; website: http://www.cnsmdp.fr/), and the Salle des Concerts, 221 avenue Jean Jaurès, 19th (tel: (01) 4484 4484).

A series of orchestras, including the Orchestre Colonne (website: http://www.orchestrecolonne.fr/), Orchestre Lamoureux (website: http://www.orchestrelamoureux.com/) and Orchestre de Paris (website: http://www.orchestredeparis.com/) are based at Salle Pleyel, 252 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, 8th (tel: (01) 4561 5300). Other prestigious venues for classical music include the Salle Gaveau, 45 rue de la Boétie, 8th (tel: (01) 4953 0507), Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 15 avenue Montaigne, 8th (tel: (01) 4952 5050; website: http://www.theatrechampselysees.fr/), and the Théâtre Musical de Paris, 1 place du Châtelet, 1st (tel: (01) 4028 2840; website: http://www.chatelet-theatre.com/).

Theatre: The Comédie Française, 1 place de Colette, 1st (tel: (01) 4458 1515; website: http://www.comedie-francaise.fr/), is the national theatre, renowned for its production of the classics. Théâtre National de la Colline, 15 rue Malte-Brun, 20th (tel: (01) 4462 5252; website: http://www.colline.fr/), plays contemporary French drama. New talent is sought out at fringe theatres, such as Guichet-Montparnasse, 15 rue du Maine, 14th (tel: (01) 4327 8861; website: http://www.guichetmontparnasse.com/) and the Bouffes du Nord, 37 bis boulevard de la Chapelle, 10th (tel: (01) 4607 3450; website: http://www.bouffesdunord.com/). The Odéon, 1 place de l’Odéon, 6th (tel: (01) 4485 4000; website: http://www.theatre-odeon.fr/), hosts foreign-language productions.

Dance: The main ballet venue is at the Opéra Garnier (see Music above). Major productions are also held at the prestigious Théâtre de la Ville, 2 place du Châtelet, 4th (tel: (01) 4274 2277; website: http://www.theatredelaville-paris.com/), where the works of high-profile choreographers, such as Karine Saporta, Maguy Marin and Pina Bausch, are frequently shown. The theatre has another venue, Les Abbesses, with the same contact details at 31 rue des Abbesses, 18th. The Théâtre Musical de Paris (see Music above) hosts ballet companies from abroad.

Film: The first public film screening ever (‘Le train entrant en gare’) was shown by the Lumière brothers in Paris in 1895. Today, Paris remains an important cinema capital - in any given week, over 300 films are shown. Hundreds of movies have been shot in Paris since then, but the most recent one to cause a stir was TheDa Vinci Code (2006), starring Tom Hanks and Audrey Tatou, in which the Louvre features prominently. The scenes of the interior of the Ritz, incidentally, were filmed in a mock up room in a UK studio, with all the furnishings brought in from Paris). There is no English-language cinema in the city; however, most films are shown in the original language, with French subtitles. UGC (website: http://www.ugc.fr/) have a major presence in Paris with the city’s largest (18-screen) cinema UGC Ciné Cité Bercy, 2 cours St-Emilion, 12th (tel: 0892 700 000). There is also a 16-screen UGC Ciné Cité Les Halles, place de la Rotonde, Nouveau Forum des Halles, 1st (tel: 0892 700 000). Although the multiscreen UGCs and Gaumonts are on the increase (many based on the Champs-Elysées and in Montparnasse), Paris is still teeming with small arthouse cinemas, clustered in the 5th and 6th arrondissements. Among these are Le Champo, 51 rue des Ecoles, 5th (tel: (01) 4354 5160; website: http://www.lechampo.com/), near the Sorbonne, and Racine Odéon, 6 rue de l’Ecole-de-Médecine, 6th (tel: 0892 689 325), known for its all-night showings. Some cinemas are worth seeing just for their decor - one such is kitsch Le Grand Rex, 1 boulevard Poissonnière, 2nd (tel: (01) 4508 9358; website: http://www.legrandrex.com/). Amélie or Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain (2001), directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet (of Delicatessen (1991) fame) and Moulin Rouge (2001), directed by Baz Luhrmann, were both set in Montmartre and took box offices worldwide by storm. Paris, je t’aime (2006) is a filmic tour of the city, consisting of 18 short films of the capital’s 20 arrondissements. A stellar cast including Gérard Depardieu, Nathalie Portman and Marianne Faithfull worked with celebrated directors such as Gus Van Sant and the Coen brothers.

Literary Notes: The written word and those uttered during long café discussions on the Left Bank have done much to create the mythical Paris that visitors still hunt out today.

Victor Hugo’s historical novel The Hunchback of Notre-Dame (1831) is set in 15th-century Paris and his Les Misérables (1862) in the poverty-stricken Parisian underworld. Ernest Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast (1964) depicts the bohemian Paris of the inter-war years. Henry Miller’s Tropic of Cancer (1934) and Tropic of Capricorn (1939) portray a sexier city. A more reflective image is portrayed in Anais Nin’s interlocking works. For Nin, Paris allows the development of her sexuality and (perceived as equally sinful) creativity. George Orwell describes the poverty of the 1920s in Down and Out in Paris and London (1933).

Traces of literary heroes and heroines and their fictional creations are sought throughout the city - in the lingering smoke of the Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, boulevard St-Germain, 6th, where the existential discussions between Jean-Paul Sartre, Albert Camus and Simone de Beauvoir used to rage. James Joyce used to drink at chic Le Fouquet’s, 99 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th, while such luminaries as Jean Jacques Rousseau, Voltaire and Oscar Wilde frequented Le Procope, 13 rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie, 6th. Ernest Hemingway dined at the La Cloiserie des Lilas, 171 boulevard du Montparnasse, 6th, still popular with the publishing world, and Samuel Beckett’s favourite haunt was Le Select, 99 boulevard du Montparnasse, 6th.

The place of literary pilgrimage par excellence is the Père Lachaise Cemetery, presumed resting place of medieval lovers Abélard and Héloïse. They lie in good company, along with the great 17th-century playwright Molière and fable-teller La Fontaine, Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Champollion, Delacroix, Ingres, Géricault, Bizet, Balzac, Proust, Colette and Edith Piaf. Contemporary poet, singer and icon Jim Morrison was famously buried here in 1971. Heather Reyes’Zade (2004) is set in Père Lachaise and swirls around the ghosts of Jim Morrison, Marcel Proust and Oscar Wilde

Paris: Restaurants

One Of Many Restaurants In Paris

Hotel Raphael
(The Gastronomic Restaurant)

Restaurants

Most restaurants include tax and a 12-15% service charge in their prices. If service is good, guests will often leave an extra €2 tip or the small change from their bill, if they pay in cash. If service is not included, it is customary to leave a 12-15% tip.

The following hotels have been grouped into four price categories:
$$$$ (over €100)
$$$ (€60 to €100)
$$ (€30 to €60)
$ (under €30)
These prices are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include tax and service charge.

Gastronomic

L’Ambroisie
The atmosphere in place des Vosges (one of the most beautiful and intimate squares in Paris) exudes into the ultra chic L’Ambroisie, which is situated in a genuine hôtel particulier (private hotel). Classic French cuisine is served to pure perfection in these refined interiors decorated with rich tapestries. The menu changes according to the best fresh produce available and prices are steep. Diners can expect such delights as sea bass with olive oil emulsion, chanterelle and boletus mushrooms, and millefeuille with crystallised rhubarb. Wines are likewise expensive but the range is exceptional. Closed Sunday and Monday.

9 place des Vosges, 4th
Tel: (01) 4278 5145.
Price: $$$$
L’Arpège
Alain Passard has drawn on his family history to produce a restaurant renowned for superb, seasonal cuisine. His grandmother’s portrait hangs on the otherwise minimalist walls and it is her cooking and joie de vivre that is the source of Alain Passard’s inspiration. The restaurant is named in honor of his musical parents and to set the tone for the harmony of flavors. Passard’s menu places emphasis on fresh vegetables, fish and white meat. Dishes include lobster carpaccio with olive oil and caviar, fragrant stuffed tomatoes or strawberries scented with hibiscus petals.  Closed Saturday and Sunday.

84 rue de Varenne, 7th
Tel: (01) 4705 0906.
Website: http://www.alain-passard.com/
Price: $$$$
Pierre Gagnaire
This sumptuous restaurant has the reputation of being among the most exciting gastronomic addresses in Paris and it is certainly one of the most fashionable. Formerly based in St-Etienne, near the gastronomic capital Lyon, Gagnaire brought flavours of that region to Paris in his imaginative menus, which hold dear both tradition and innovation. A simple but refined décor, with spotless white tablecloths, makes the perfect setting for his challenging but impeccable cuisine. Specialities include suprême de poularde macérée au lait d’amande (chicken supreme cooked in almond milk) and pesto de roquette sauvage (wild rocket pesto). Look out for the ‘grand dessert’ - an indulgent dessert that includes pistachio ice cream and an explosion of chocolate. Closed Saturday.

Hotel Balzac, 6 rue Balzac, 8th
Tel: (01) 5836 1250.
Website: http://www.pierregagnaire.com/
Price: $$
Restaurant Plaza Athénée
Alain Ducasse was awarded three Michelin stars within eight months of first opening his Paris restaurant in 1996, at 59 avenue Raymond Poincare, 16th, where he took over from star chef Joel Robuchon after moving to the capital from Monte Carlo. In 2000, Ducasse moved the restaurant to a chic new venue in the 8th, opening the Restaurant Plaza Athénée - a sumptuously stylish venue with soaring ceilings, warm tones and splendid chandeliers. Dishes include creations such as langoustine avec une crème citronnée (langoustine in a lemon cream sauce). Advance booking is strongly recommended. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Hotel Plaza Athénée, 25 avenue Montaigne, 8th
Tel: (01) 5367 6500.
Website: http://www.alain-ducasse.com/
Price: $$$$
Senderens
Alain Senderens’ three-Michelin-starred restaurant is at the pinnacle of Parisian gastronomy, situated in a grand fin de siècle-setting in chic place de la Madeleine. The first of the Michelin-starred restaurants to serve wine by the glass, Senderens believes that each dish deserves a wine of its own to perfect the flavors, though the prices may put off those not dining on expense accounts. The wine list is outstanding, with vintage Bordeaux from the 1940s. Dishes include pan-fried chicken with cep risotto, roast duck with honey and spices, roast lamb with aubergines or pan-fried lobster served with polenta. No lunch Saturday and Monday. Closed all day Sunday.

9 place de la Madeleine, 8th
Tel: (01) 4265 2290.
Website: http://www.lucascarton.com/
Price: $$$$

Business

Bistrot de l’Etoile
Some Parisian brasseries have become a little old fashioned and bistros are now all the rage for filling up late at night. Meals, such as duck foie gras with rocket salad, are served until 2330/2400, well after traditional restaurants have closed. Other highlights on the menu include langoustine ravioli with red peppers and a divine crème brulée. The atmosphere here is best described as chic decontracté(smart but relaxed) with a light and airy feel to the main dining room.

75 avenue Niel, 17th
Tel: (01) 4227 8844.
Website: http://www.bistrotetoile.com/
Price: $$$
Bofinger
Frédéric Bofinger first set up a restaurant on this Bastille location in 1864. This convivial art nouveau brasserie exudes the unique atmosphere of Paris, as the business community forgets about the office for an hour or two, while tucking into classics such as steak tartare, salade mixte or shellfish. The highlight for real seafood lovers is Le Prestige - that features lobster, crab, langoustines, a dozen oysters, mussels and sea snails amongst other fresh delights. Another speciality is the sauerkraut dishes. There is a real buzz here that is so sadly lacking in many of the rival brasseries and booking ahead is advised. The two- and three-course menus are excellent value. There are 15% discounts for Internet bookings.

5-7 rue de la Bastille, 4th
Tel: (01) 4272 8782.
Website: http://www.bofingerparis.com/
Price: $$
Le Carré des Feuillants
One of the least understood chefs in Paris (perhaps because he avoids snobbery at any cost) Alain Dutournier brought his love of meat and fine fresh ingredients from the Basque country. The wooden interior of Le Carré des Feuillants is cosy but stylish with Murano glass chandeliers and contemporary artwork, though it is not by any means as lavish as many of the city’s finest restaurants. Specialties include roast guinea fowl in a wild mushroom sauce or roast lobster with garlic and pepper nougatine, but this is really the place to enjoy a steak to remember. Fixed priced menus can be of varying quality, so it is best to stick to à la carte.

14 rue de Castiglionne, 1st
Tel: (01) 4286 8282.
Website: http://www.carredesfeuillants.fr/
Price: $$$$
Chez Justine
If entertaining a ‘new media’ client, or just needing a venue out of the ordinary for a client low on formality, then  Chez Justine fits the bill. In raffish Menilmontant this fun and funky café opposite the legendary Café Charbon serves up some of the best value lunches in Paris. Where else can diners enjoy a starter of bone marrow and toast, a rack of veal and dessert for under €20; they even throw in a cup of coffee afterwards. The only danger in this genuinely bohemian haunt is that savvy clients may want to stay all day and start on the similarly good value wines and cocktails.

96 Rue Oberkampf, 11th
Tel: (01) 4357 4403.
Price: $-$$

Trendy

Georges
Georges, decorated in a style that matches the modern Centre Georges Pompidou, is the latest creation from the trend-setting Costes brothers. The restaurant’s location on the sixth floor of the Pompidou Centre draws huge crowds, who come for the superb views across the city. A chic but trendy clientele dine here, while students often come to take a coffee break before diving back into their studies at the Pompidou library. The menu, which includes both French and international cuisine, changes frequently, although the duck, the lobster risotto and the chocolate tart are firm house favourites. Closed Tuesday.

Centre Georges Pompidou, 6th floor, rue Rabuteau, 4th
Tel: (01) 4478 4799.
Price: $$-$$$
Spoon, Food & Wine
Star chef Alain Ducasse forsakes classic French food for an Asian-inspired international cuisine where anything goes but it is all blended beautifully together. Expect copious portions and a trendy crowd. Guests can take a quick bite to eat from Japanese-style bento boxes at the bar, or indulge in a leisurely meal in the main area. Dishes in this minimalist-style restaurant include tofu and noodles or spiced chicken in coconut milk. The wine list is extensive, with a particularly wide choice of Californian wines. Closed weekends.

14 rue Marignan, 8th
Tel: (01) 4076 3444.
Website: http://www.spoon.tm.fr/
Price: $-$$

Paris: Nightlife

Moulin Rouge

Anyone wanting to really mix it with the style crowd and have an ‘authentic’ Parisian night out should break east to raffish Ménilmontant, which boasts a sophisticated and eclectic nightlife scene that was kicked off by the legendary Café Charbon on rue de Oberkampf, a street now overflowing with bars. The smart money is on Belleville being the next new ‘in’ place, though the scene in this rough-around-the-edges part of town is far less obvious and it is just that bit further from the center.

Back in the heart of the city, the Marais has managed an impressive renaissance of late and now offers plenty of bars, chic cafes and a perhaps surprisingly active gay and lesbian scene.

A Parisian Bar

The minimum legal age for drinking alcohol (beer and wine) is 16 years of age, rising to 18 years for stronger drinks and spirits. The average price of a drink while out and about in Paris is €5, although prices can vary dramatically depending on the location. Bars are usually licensed until 0100 but this does vary according to the individual venue and area. Bouncers frequently turn potential punters away and many of the smarter clubs are (or claim to be) private. There is no sure way of gaining admission, although being foreign, dressed identically to everyone inside, accompanied by a regular or simply beautiful helps. Admission prices (usually around €15-20) often include one free drink. Clubs open at around 2300 and tend not to close until dawn.

Pariscope (website: http://www.pariscope.com/) is one of the best sources of information for nightlife listings.

Bars: The lines between cafés and bars in Paris are very blurred, with cafés where you can settle in with a beer and a croissant for breakfast and bars when you can enjoy a late night sandwich along with your cocktail.

Night Club In Paris

The once trendy Buddha Bar, 8 bis rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8th, has lost much of its shine, with the bars in Ménilmontant now the place to see and be seen. Café Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf, 11th, the bar that kicked the rejuvenation of the area is still going strong and has stayed at the head of the game by adding a club venue, while Le Mecano Bar, 99 rue Oberkampf, 11th, so called because of its toolbox decor, is one of most popular bars in the area with a grungy feel. The scene in Ménilmontant is constantly evolving so visitors are advised to just wander around rue de Oberkampf and explore some its side streets for the latest ‘in’ bar as the cool crowd increasingly move away from the bright lights and tourists on the main drag. For those wanting something more central, the people behind Café Charbon have recently opened a funky new bar/restaurant, De la Ville Café, 34 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, which is a current favouite of the Parisian smart set and savvy visitors.

The Marais (3rd and 4th) is packed with a happy mélange of gay and straight bars. Vibrant gay bars include the Coffe Shop, 3 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, and Amnesia, 42 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th. Le Central, 33 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th, is one of the city’s oldest gay bars, with a more sedate clientele. There are also a number of quirky little straight bars in and around rue Vieille-du-Temple, including La Chaise au Plafond, 10 rue du Trésor, 4th, with its ceiling decorated with Frisian cows and a lovely terrace, Au Petit Fer à Cheval, 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th, named after its huge horseshoe-shaped bar, and L’Etoile Manquante, 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th.


Clubs: Techno, house, garage and Latino are the popular sounds of Paris and, to a lesser extent, hip hop and drum and bass. Top DJs play house tunes at Le Queen, 102 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th, a gay club that is still considered one of the best clubs in Paris despite the influx of tourists. Thursday and Saturday is gay only, with drag queens in profusion. Le Divan du Monde, located in the Pigalle district, at 75 rue des Martyrs, 18th (website: www.divandumonde.com), once hosted Toulouse-Lautrec but now draws a crowd that changes radically according to the evening’s programme - Brazilian, tango, indie, rock, house and hip hop nights alternate with top French and international DJs. Le Saint, 7 rue St-Séverin, 5th, which plays disco, house and salsa, is inexpensive and relaxed. Les Bains Douches, 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé, 3rd (website: www.lesbainsdouches.net), a former Turkish bathhouse transformed into the most pretentious of clubs, is enjoying renewed popularity under new ownership. Batofar, 11 quai Francois-Mauriac, 13th, is a fun little club housed in a boat on the Seine that boasts a wide range of musical styles.

Live Music: Le Divan du Monde (see Clubs above) hosts intimate pop concerts, providing a chance to see the stars close up. Live jazz is played by local and international high-calibre musicians at Le Bilboquet, 13 rue St-Benoît, 6th, nightly (from around 2200 onwards). There is no admission charge but drinks are priced at about €20. A young, unsophisticated crowd is drawn to La Flèche d’Or, 102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 20th (website: www.flechedor.fr), a converted station turned live-music venue, on the edge of trendy Ménilmontant. Concerts run from Thursday to Sunday evenings and the music ranges from rock to blues or reggae and satirical French chansons. Chesterfield Café, 124 rue La Boétie, 8th, situated just off avenue des Champs-Elysées, is popular with expats and hosts US rock and blues bands. To guarantee a seat, it is wise to book a table. Major rock concerts take place at the Palais des Congrès, 2 place de la Porte-Maillot, 17th (website: www.palaisdescongres-paris.com). The Opus Jazz and Blues Restaurant, 167 quai Valmy, 10th, in the upcoming Canal de Saint Martin area, offers good food and an eclectic selection of music, from aspiring Parisian youths through to more established acts.